1 whole Idaho smoked trout, skin removed, deboned, cut in large pieces
2 tablespoons white-truffle oil
2 ounces golden caviar
Chives for garnish
Heat olive oil in a 3 1⁄2-qt. straight-sided sauté pan over medium heat. Add onion; cook 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add shallots and garlic; cook, stirring several times, until tender but not brown, about 2 minutes.
Add mushrooms; season with half of salt and half of pepper. Cook 4 to 5 minutes. Add thyme, potatoes and remaining salt and pepper. Stir well.
Gradually pour white wine and chicken stock into mixture; increase heat to mediumhigh. Bring mixture to simmer, stirring occasionally, until wine and stock are reduced by three-quarters, about 10 minutes.
Add cream and butter. Simmer until potatoes are tender and cream has thickened, 8 to 10 minutes. Add additional cream if mixture is too thick; it should have a creamy, risotto-like texture.
Add cheese and minced chives; stir well. Adjust seasoning with remaining salt and pepper. Fold in smoked trout and truffle oil.
To serve: Spoon "risotto" onto warm plates. Top with caviar. Garnish with 5-in. lengths of chives, dropped like pick-up sticks (Alternately, garnish with thyme, mushrooms and Parmigiano-Reggiano shavings, as shown in photo.)